Platter's South African Wine Guide
For the past two years I’ve had the immense privilege of being part of the Platter’s South African Wine Guide. Initially as an associate taster sitting across the table from Cathy van Zyl, and then as an official taster but still tasting with Cathy van Zyl via video calls (and I wouldn’t have it any other way!). I've also been an imposter. Because how could one possibly not feel like a charlatan when surrounded by great wine folk...
Philip van Zyl, Editor of the Platter’s South African Wine Guide
Nerves abounded when I hopped on a call with Philip, fuelled by puzzlement over where and why he knew my name. The ‘why not’ was obvious: I’d failed two tasting exams and stubbornly insist on attempting to blend traditional WSET-influenced tasting notes with creative, hopefully relatable, real life references…often peppered with cuss words. During the call I felt compelled to admit that I don’t believe in assigning point scores; and that I’d broadcast this feeling in public writing. I’d never met the man before - I now can’t think of him without picturing his gentle, smiling eyes and hearing his voice - but I could hear the kindness and smile over the phone. So I agreed. I’m still not sure if he heard my soliloquy about point scores.
I’d, obviously, heard about Philip and some of his credentials. The editor at Platter’s for nearly 30 years; a career in publishing as a journalist and editor at trade magazines (quite possibly/absolutely definitely) the reason I was drawn to him and his role in the publication...far more so than the tasting aspect. There’s a humble honesty to him that makes me suspect that we’d surely passed each other in a physical book store. So I agreed…and dropped many a hint that I should move away from tasting and into production.
Towards the end of that first conversation, in and amongst the laughs and serious logistics, I eventually dared to ask how he’d heard of me. And I have the wonderful Cathy Marston, head of the International Wine Education Centre (IWEC), to thank for the recommendation. Thank you, Cathy *Number 2”.
As far as wine tasting was concerned, I had little interaction with Philip. But it felt as though we spoke regularly. It felt as though I could empathise with his editorial and print deadlines in a way that only those who have worked in publishing can appreciate (which is a fair number of the Platter’s tasters). My sincere and heartfelt thanks to Philip for, somehow, managing to include me in some of the behind-the-scenes production aspects of the Platter’s wine guide in a way that made me feel valuable. I wish I’d bugged him more to tap into his immense knowledge, as well as learn more about someone whose career resonates with my own day job and wine hobby.
Cathy van Zyl, MW and Associate Editor of Platter’s South African Wine Guide
Cathy is a woman who needs no introduction, and someone I had zero qualms about bugging because she made the mistake of introducing me to her dog in our very first in-person tastings together.
At this tasting, the **third Cathy left the room to gather more bottles that needed reviewing and scoring as I completed notes on the last flight of wines (MW’s are fast!). She left me with her puppy cuddling on the office couch and tantalisingly within reach of a head scratch. Finish the tasting notes or play with the puppy? There was never any real choice. I didn’t finish my tasting notes in time. Cathy returned to a guilty scene of me giving pets and scritches at the highest pitches. The second time that I’d ever met Cathy was at an MW information session to provide more information about the programme, answer our questions, and taste a few wines according to MW exam requirements. I didn’t finish my tasting notes in time…again. Anyone who has met Cathy, the first female South African MW, will gush about her kindness, frankness and quick witted humour…all whilst gently reminding you that her time is limited…and proceeding to answer every last one of your inane questions about hacking the ‘work in the wine industry’ MW entrance requirements.
During the first year my hand was firmly and graciously held by Cathy van Zyl; a support that is without a doubt extended to each and every contributor. It was comfortable and informative and she taught me about how the guide operated (while I distractedly yelled endearments at her dog).
A dear and trusted friend described Cathy and Philip as mensches. My dear and trusted friend is correct.
Fiona McDonald, Wine Writer, Judge and Legend
Aka watch me fangirl. Chardonnay is not my first choice of grape. Thus, participating - like, actually being required to actively participate - in the Platter’s 5 star blind tastings was daunting. Enter Fiona:
Over and above the anxiety of meeting fellow Platter’s tasters, I knew I’d be tasting Chardonnays with the venerable Fiona McDonald; a highly respected South African freelance wine journalist, former editor of Wine Magazine, a wine judge (International Wine Challenge, International Wine & Spirit Competition, Concours Mondial de Bruxelles), Regional Chair for South Africa at Decanter’s World Wine Awards, and a senior contributor for the Platter's South African Wine Guide.
Fiona is also a whizz at making newbies feel comfortable without a single patronising word. I felt increasingly capable with each glass and rating comparison throughout our tasting. We zipped through the rows and rows (and more rows) of Chard, with Fiona patiently waiting for me to finish. The majority of our assessments were in alignment or an easy argument defending why or why not a wine deserves 5-stars. Most noticeably and confidence-boostingly, we immediately agreed on our favourite winner - a striking and noticeably different Chardonnay.
Best. Tasting. Ever.
So what’s my point?
For a good long while I’ve heard and read criticisms of the Platter’s South African Guide. I, myself, have been guilty of calling it a ‘glorified wine phone directory bound in fancy hard cover’. Ultimately, and with the benefit of witnessing the process first hand, isn’t it brilliant that a small team of people are dedicated to attempting to document every South African wine and brandy that is available to the public each year? Isn’t it convenient that the book contains up-to-date contact details for each wine producer?
How does it work? The first round of Platter’s tastings is sighted; allowing their tasters to assess the wines in the comfort of their own home and in their own time. For me, it’s what sets them apart from other awards. It’s not a frenetic exam tasting environment with limited time to extract the core features of the wine in exchange for a pass mark (though, I still heavily rely on this structured method). It’s not a room of judges assessing and, I’d imagine, inevitably comparing wines in a palate-exhausting flight (though, I have much respect for their diligence and endurance). It is the opportunity for Platter’s tasters to spend time with the wines in an environment that is akin to wine consumers…albeit consumers with trained palates.
Thereafter, based on the sighted taster’s assessments, wines that were scored as 93+ are submitted to a blind tasting to decide which of those are worthy of 5 stars; and this is where Platter’s rejoins most other wine judgings (that I am aware of). Aside from assigning numerical valuations to a wine, it makes the most sense to me that all the wines are experienced in a way that the winemakers’ intended for consumption.
Here’s my takeaway after 2 years...
The Positives:
- Lovely people! Over and above Philip, Cathy and Fiona, there are many wonderfully friendly and welcoming staff (Amanda!) and tasters that I met at the first blind tasting.
- I love a comprehensive resource - and Platter’s is, by far, the best with the option of a physical fancy hard cover or a convenient application on your phone.
- The aforementioned ability to taste a wine in your own time
- A recognisable brand that consumers can rely on, whether it’s via the book or spotting award stickers in-store.
The Negatives: I really don’t have any aside from the limited character count for the Platter’s taster. But this is a fun (and hard) challenge; as well as a necessary production restriction to curb the fluff and meet a reasonable consumer price point.
The Opportunities for Improvement:
I can’t help but think that, despite being for the consumer, the consumer is missing from the Platter’s mission. They’re sitting on a gold mine of legacy, respect and consistency. They have an established and measurable brand that satisfies both physical and digital interest. But it feels as though that, once the public purchases the product, they’re left alone.
- Hosting stands at a few of the annual wine events each year for the public to taste Platter’s best-in-category wines
- An annual Platter’s tasting to connect the wines, Platter’s official tasters, winemakers and the public feels like an obvious oversight given the SA wine authority of this publication.
- A public favourite vote at this annual tasting, or a consumer digital vote that is open for the entire year; a way to extend the once-off book launch and further engagement with SA wine consumers.
- Smaller, intimate dinners hosted by a few of the Platter’s tasters who present their favourites, whether they score 5-stars or not (because, let’s face it, many of our favourite wines that we’d repurchase time and again are not 100-pointers). Perhaps co-hosted with winemakers.
- Platter’s wine pairing suggestions at restaurants
- And something I’d suggested was adding a BIPOC feature to the book/app.
I always call myself an awful taster (I’ve yet to pass a sparkling tasting exam). I also know this isn’t completely true (I have passed as many tasting exams as I have failed). My paradox is that I inherently value (and silently assess) the packaging, the messaging and intention behind the wine, and whether those elements align with what I’m tasting. I want to view the forest and not only identify the tree. I think I’m more open-minded about qualities and styles that deviate from a 90+ pointer classic. It’s the reason why I was eager to graduate from the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy - I wanted to be an advocate for the weird and wacky, and the consumer with a humble budget.
A different trusted friend once said that the Platter’s tasting process suits the way that I taste. My friend is correct. Because, despite rating the wines with only the consumer in mind and in alignment with the publication’s standards, Platter’s sighted process satisfies my true interest in wine. Needless to say, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my experience with Platter’s and am delighted to have been invited back for the next edition. Perhaps this is the year where I'll feel less like an imposter.
*Cathy Marston is technically my second Wine Cathy, only because I’ve adored winemaker, Cathy Marshall, ever since her wines were labelled Barefoot Wines. I met Marston when I signed up for WSET Level 2 as a birthday present to myself...at least a decade after being introduced to Marshall. And I will never forget the moment she automatically used her body (her leg) as she started teaching us about Italy. Level 2, Level 3, the Diploma…the lady is a wine education legend.
**Cathy van Zyl is one of my favourite wine memories. As much as I tell the story of an MW skipping the queue at the Hemel-en-Aarde Pinot Celebration…the truth is that we invited her to join us at the front of the queue. She was the first MW I met. And…sigh…she couldn’t have been more lovely. We shared a meal together (squid ink rolls filled with barbecued pork belly and pickled red onions paired with the Newton Johnson Albarino…I warned you that it is one of my favourite memories!) and she was delightful in acknowledging my thoughts on the pairing. I even stole her event access card as a memento!
