Colombard - What's The Grape
Or Colombar as it appears in South Africa, where we spell the name in accordance with the French pronunciation.
Origin:
A cross between Gouais Blanc and Chenin Blanc. (Gouis Blanc, also known as Heunisch Weiss, originates from central France. Although plantings are now limited to Alpine Switzerland and Italy, Gouis Blanc is the parent to 81 grape varieties (source: Wine Grapes), including some of the most important varieties in France, Germany, Austria, and Hungary. Chardonnay, Gamay, Aligoté, Blaufränkisch, Furmint and possibly Riesling).
Also known as:
The grape is also known as Colombar in South Africa, and French Colombard in the USA.
Plantings:
Colombard is grown in Gascony and the Charentes and is still a permitted grape in Bordeaux. In California, where it is also known as French Colombard, it dates back to the 19th century and, as in California and the much smaller plantings in Australia, is regularly used in blends to add freshness from the naturally high acidity. A few Californian producers have discovered that older vines are capable of producing varietal wines with energetic verve.
Planted in South Africa since the 1920s, it was primarily used in the brandy industry. But, unlike its birthplace in Bordeaux where it is still a permitted grape, the grape thrives in warm climates. By the 1970s, SA producers realised that it produces tasty still wines.
South Africa leads with 93% of global Colombard vineyard plantings:
South Africa:
11,512 hectares (mostly planted in Olifants River, Robertson, Breedekloof and Northern Cape)
France:
8,441 hectares
USA:
7,991 hectares
Old Vines:
According to South Africa’s Old Vine Project, 520 hectares are vines 35 years or older. And it’s these vines that produce the marvelously pure wines brimming with electricity and expression. Independent producers such as Sakkie Mouton Family Wines, Rebel Rebel, Naudé, and Colombo prove what this ‘work horse’ variety is capable of.
South African Cape Brandies are world class award winning spirits; one must acknowledge the role that the brandy distillation industry and rewarding the farming of these rebate wines has played in retaining old vineyards of both Colombard and Chenin Blanc.
Grape characteristics:
Colombard has inherited Gouais Blanc’s characteristics; it is a vigorous, high-yielding, non-aromatic variety with high acid. These are qualities well suited to brandy production, hence why Colombard is best known for its use as a distillation wine for Brandy. Cape Brandy, Cognac and Armagnac are all associated with Colombard.
In the bottle:
There's some overlap with Chenin Blanc in terms of high acidity. As well as a similarity to Sauvignon Blanc where it can exhibit tropical fruit notes. In moderate climates one can expect green apple, sweet melon, peach, and almond alongside the citrus. But, notably, in warmer climates it is able to achieve tropical guava, passionfruit, lychee, and pineapple notes while retaining its zesty acidity.
Ageing:
Drink now, not suitable for ageing beyond 2 years.
Wine reviews:
Mouton Family Wines Vloedvlak Colombar 2022
Very pale lemon with a surprisingly pronounced nose of honeysuckle, beeswax, ripe but subtle apricots and peaches, Granny Smith apples, mandarins, a hint of nutmeg, and...I know I have an active imagination but I’m going to add distant old smoke and sticky dark toffee.
Dry, medium (+) acidity, medium (+) bodied with a weighty mouthfeel, medium alcohol, and a long finish. The palate is juicy and bright - naartjies!, tart nectarines, and greengage. And yes, there’s some ‘signature’ salinity in the background...but more salty ‘meebos’ (salted dried apricots) and a little seaside brine. It’s the tongue coating long hug texture, along with a little naartjie peel zing that’s so addictive.
Rebel Rebel Old Vine Colombar 2023
A far yellower yellow than expected...but those boogie lights delivered on their promise of a good time: green apple and melon, quince, honey, green hay, dry grass, earthy fresh button mushrooms, chamomile, mild sweet brandy fumes, and salinity.
The slinky RS (only 4g) is elegantly countered by savoury salinity, while electric acidity pulsed through the medium body with its creamy texture...all the way through the fairly lengthy (med +) grapefruit-zing finish. White peaches, lemongrass, and pineapple have you John Travolta’ing a finger in the air.
Pairing suggestions:
Again, think about something halfway between Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp salads - especially with creamy cheeses such as feta or goat's cheese. Seafood is a must where the wine has enough acidity to match lemony dressings or sushi vinegar and pickled ginger - sushi, grilled fish drizzled in roasted lemons, ceviche, or fish kedgeree. Roasted chicken seems to pair with everything, but perhaps consider using the leftovers to build a Caesar salad where the acidity of the wine will cut through the fatty dressing.
What's the Grape Series: Crouchen Blanc, Fernão Pires
